Your Questions Answered

Most single rooms are sanded and finished in one to two days. Larger areas, repairs or extra coats add time, and we confirm the timeline with your fixed quote.

Very little. Our dust-free sanding systems capture around 99% of dust at source, so your home stays clean while we work. We also sheet off doorways and protect adjoining rooms before we start.

We visit for free, look at the floor and give you a fixed written quote. The price on the quote is the price you pay, unless you ask us to add extra work. You can book a survey online in a couple of minutes.

Yes, we carry £5m public liability insurance. Certificates are available on request, which facilities managers and landlords often need before work starts.

Our floor restoration comes with a 3-month service guarantee. If something is not right with our workmanship during those three months, we come back and put it right. Gap filling is excluded, because wooden floors move with the seasons — see our service guarantee for the full terms.

No. We work room by room, and most customers stay at home throughout. Our water-based lacquers and low-VOC oils have very little odour, and we plan the order of rooms around you.

Light foot traffic in socks is usually fine after a few hours. Furniture can go back after 24–48 hours, and rugs after about a week while the finish fully cures.

Our team works across Enfield and the neighbouring towns and villages. If you are just outside the area, get in touch — we are often happy to travel for larger jobs.

Because the blocks run in different directions, we use a multi-direction sanding sequence. Finishing with a planetary or buffing machine removes swirl marks and leaves an even surface ready for oil or lacquer.

Many older parquet floors were laid on bitumen adhesive. It does not stop us restoring the floor, but loose blocks need cleaning back and re-fixing with a compatible adhesive. We check this during the survey and include it in the quote.

We fill narrow gaps with a resin and wood-dust mix that matches the boards. Larger gaps are best filled with tapered pine slivers, glued and planed flush. Our gap filling guide compares the two.

Gap filling is excluded from our service guarantee. Wooden floors expand and shrink with the seasons and with movement in the building, which can open small cracks in the filler. We choose the method that suits your floor best to keep this to a minimum.

It usually makes a real difference. Gaps between floorboards let draughts rise from under the floor. Filling them makes rooms feel warmer and helps keep dust out.

Yes. After sanding we lay out colour samples on your own floor so you can see how each shade looks in your light before we commit. Find out more about our staining service.

Every timber takes stain differently. Sample cards are only a rough guide, so testing on your own boards is the only reliable way to choose.

Yes — we strip paint and old varnish from treads, risers and spindles. Sanding stairs is detailed hand work, and we finish them with a durable finish that copes with daily use. See stairs stripping and restoration.

Usually, yes. We work on every other step so you can still get up and down, then complete the rest once the first coats are dry. We agree the plan with you before we start.

Most staircases take two to three days from stripping to final coat. Lots of paint layers or turned balusters can add a day, which we include in your quote.

Yes — we plan school and public projects around term dates, events and opening hours. Most halls are finished in a few days, so the space is back in use quickly.

Yes. After sanding we apply a slip-resistant sports lacquer and can repaint court markings to your layout between coats so they are sealed in. Read more about our school floor restoration.

We provide risk assessments, method statements and insurance details before work begins. We are used to working in schools, churches and offices with site inductions and access rules.

Office floors can be done out of hours or in phases. Our dust-free machines and water-based lacquers mean staff can be back at their desks quickly.

We have restored many church and community hall floors. We treat older floors with care and choose finishes suited to busy halls. See churches and community halls.

Prices depend on the floor area, condition, repairs needed and the finish you choose. Our price list shows typical starting prices, and we confirm everything with a fixed written quote.

Often, yes. A few clear photos and the room sizes let us give a guide price within a working day. We confirm it with a short visit before work starts, so the final quote is fixed.

Oil soaks into the timber for a natural look and is easy to spot-repair. Lacquer forms a tougher surface layer that copes well with spills and busy households. We will help you choose at the survey — or read our guide to oil and lacquer.

Yes. We use low-VOC oils and water-based lacquers that are safe for families and pets once cured. We suggest keeping pets out of the room for the first 24 hours, and trim claws to help the finish last.

Oiled floors normally get two coats, and lacquered floors three. Busy hallways and commercial floors can have an extra coat for added protection.

In most cases, yes — as long as the top wear layer is 3 mm or more. We check the thickness during the free survey, often by lifting a threshold strip or a floor vent. Our engineered floor guide explains more.

Solid timber floors can be sanded again and again. Each sand removes only a fraction of a millimetre when done properly, so a well-kept floor will last generations.

Almost always. We re-glue loose blocks, replace missing ones with matched or reclaimed timber, then sand and finish the whole floor so the repairs disappear. Find out more about parquet floor repairs.

Yes — original boards often hide beautiful timber under old paint and varnish. We knock down protruding nails, replace split boards and sand back to fresh timber. Read our floorboard restoration guide for the full process.

Empty the room where possible and take down curtains that reach the floor. We can help move heavy furniture if we know in advance. Our preparation checklist has more tips.

We need access to a standard power socket and, ideally, parking near the property. Our machines run on domestic power, and we bring everything else with us.

In most cases, yes. We clean, sand and treat the boards with a UV-resistant decking oil that brings back the colour and reduces slipperiness. See our decking restoration service.

Late spring to early autumn is ideal. The timber needs a few dry days so the oil can soak in properly. Our decking guide explains how to prepare.

Most decks benefit from a fresh coat every year. Decks in strong sun or under trees may need it sooner. Regular oiling stops the wood drying out and greying.

Yes — we replace rotten or split boards before sanding. New boards are blended in once the whole deck is oiled.

We source matching new or reclaimed timber of the same species and width. Once the floor is sanded and finished, repairs blend in. Learn more about wood floor repairs.

Squeaks usually come from loose boards rubbing against nails or joists. We re-secure boards with screws and fix any loose noggins below. Read about causes and fixes.

Often, yes. Surface stains can usually be sanded out, while cupped or blackened boards are replaced and blended in. The floor must be fully dry first, so we take moisture readings before starting.

When wear is only in the finish, a deep clean and fresh coat can bring it back. It takes a fraction of the time of a full sand and keeps the floor protected. See re-oiling.

Most homes re-oil high-traffic rooms every 12–24 months. Bedrooms often last several years. Our maintenance guide helps you judge.

Yes, if the scratches are only in the lacquer. We screen the surface, clean it and apply a new coat of lacquer, restoring the sheen without a full sand.

Use a soft brush or vacuum, then a barely damp mop with a wood floor soap. Avoid steam mops and bleach or multi-surface sprays. Read our care guide for a simple routine.